3 Days in Andamans: The "Anti-Tourist" Itinerary for 2026
The "Anti-Tourist" Plan: 3 Days in Andamans Done Right
The Andaman itinerary mistake most Indian travelers make is spending too many days in Port Blair and not enough on Havelock Island. Port Blair needs one day — the Cellular Jail in the morning, Ross Island ruins after lunch, Sound and Light Show in the evening. Everything else happens on Havelock. This 3-day Andaman trip plan for 2026 is built around that reality: Day 1 in Port Blair covering the non-negotiables, Days 2 and 3 on Havelock with Radhanagar Beach and Elephant Beach snorkeling, plus the two practical details every guide misses — that the only ATM on Havelock runs out of cash on weekends, and that speed ferry tickets sell out 3 weeks in advance during peak season. Costs, ferry options, permit process, and budget breakdown are all below.
Before You Go: Permits and Entry
Indian nationals do not need advance permits for the main Andaman islands (Port Blair, Havelock, Neil). A Restricted Area Permit (RAP) is issued free of charge at Port Blair airport on arrival — carry your original government ID. The permit is valid for 30 days and covers the main tourist islands.
Permits are NOT required in advance. The process at the airport takes 15–30 minutes.
Photography near military installations, tribal reserve areas, and certain restricted zones is prohibited. The Jarawa Tribal Reserve along the Andaman Trunk Road has strict no-photography rules enforced by police.
How to Reach the Andamans
By Air: The only practical option for a 3-day trip. Flights operate to Veer Savarkar International Airport, Port Blair from Chennai (2 hrs), Kolkata (2 hrs), Bangalore (2.5 hrs), Delhi (3.5 hrs), and Mumbai (3.5 hrs with one stop). Airlines: IndiGo, Air India, SpiceJet. One-way fares range from Rs 4,000–9,000 from Chennai or Kolkata; Rs 6,000–14,000 from Delhi or Mumbai. Book 6–8 weeks in advance for the best rates. Peak season fares (December 20–January 5) can be 2–3x these figures.
By Ship: Government ships operate from Chennai, Kolkata, and Visakhapatnam to Port Blair — journey time is 50–60 hours. Not practical for a 3-day trip.
Quick Overview
| Factor | Details |
|---|---|
| Best time | November to April |
| Avoid | May to October (monsoon, rough seas, suspended ferries) |
| Base for Day 1 | Port Blair |
| Base for Days 2–3 | Havelock Island (Swaraj Dweep) |
| Inter-island transport | Government ferry or private speed ferry |
| Ideal budget per person (3 days, ex-flights) | Rs 8,000–14,000 (budget) / Rs 18,000–35,000 (mid-range) |
| Currency | Indian Rupee; carry cash — ATMs on Havelock are limited |
3-Day Itinerary
Day 1 — Port Blair: Cellular Jail, Corbyn's Cove & Ross Island
Morning: Cellular Jail National Memorial
Land in Port Blair and go directly to the Cellular Jail — this is the single most important site in the Andamans and deserves time and attention before anything else. The jail was built by the British colonial administration between 1896 and 1906 to house political prisoners in permanent isolation. The seven radiating wings (three survive today) held independence movement leaders including Veer Savarkar, Batukeshwar Dutt, and hundreds of others who were transported here under brutal conditions.
The jail is open Tuesday to Sunday, 9 AM to 12 PM and 1 PM to 5 PM. Entry is Rs 30 for Indian nationals. The museum inside the jail complex documents the transportation of prisoners, living conditions, and the gallows. The Sound and Light Show at the jail runs every evening in Hindi and English (separate shows) — tickets are Rs 50–100 and the 45-minute show is worth attending for the historical narration. Book tickets for the evening show when you buy your day entry.
Allow 2–2.5 hours for the jail visit during the day.
Late Morning: Ross Island (Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Island)
Ross Island is 2 km from Port Blair's Phoenix Bay Jetty — a 10-minute ferry ride (Rs 50–100 return). The island was the administrative headquarters of the British in the Andamans from the 1850s until the 1941 Japanese invasion. The ruins of the Chief Commissioner's residence, church, tennis court, swimming pool, and bakery are intact and slowly being overtaken by roots and vegetation. The forest department maintains the island and deer roam freely through the ruins.
Ross Island is one of the more genuinely atmospheric places in the Andamans — the combination of colonial ruins and dense tropical forest is unlike anything on the mainland. Allow 1.5 hours.
Afternoon: Corbyn's Cove Beach
Corbyn's Cove is 8 km from Port Blair city, 15–20 minutes by auto or cab. It is Port Blair's own beach — a 1 km cove with coconut palms behind the sand and a small stretch of clear water. Not comparable to Radhanagar in quality, but a functional afternoon beach stop before your evening at the Cellular Jail light show. Water sports (jet ski, banana boat) operate here.
Evening: Cellular Jail Sound and Light Show
Return to the Cellular Jail for the evening show (Hindi show typically at 6 PM, English at 7:15 PM — confirm timings on arrival as these change seasonally). Have dinner afterwards at one of the restaurants on Marine Hill or the Aberdeen Bazaar area in Port Blair. South Indian thali and fresh seafood are the practical options — Rs 150–350 per meal at local restaurants.
Overnight: Port Blair.
Day 2 — Ferry to Havelock Island & Radhanagar Beach
Early Morning: Ferry to Havelock Island
The government ferry from Phoenix Bay Jetty to Havelock departs at 6:30 AM (confirm current schedule — timings change seasonally). Journey time is approximately 2 hours on the government vessel. Fare: Rs 300–450 for air-conditioned class.
Private speed ferries (Makruzz, Green Ocean, Nautika) depart from Haddo Wharf at various times from 6 AM onwards and reach Havelock in 60–90 minutes. Fare: Rs 1,100–1,600 one way. Speed ferries are considerably more comfortable and worth the extra cost if sea conditions are moderate.
Book ferry tickets in advance through the official Andaman ferry booking portal (andaman.gov.in) or through the speed ferry operators' websites. Walk-up availability during peak season is unreliable.
Late Morning: Beach No. 5 (Vijayanagar Beach)
The ferry docks at Havelock's Jetty No. 1. Hire an auto-rickshaw or rent a bicycle (Rs 100–150/day) at the jetty. Beach No. 5 — officially Vijayanagar Beach — is 5 km from the jetty, approximately 15 minutes by auto. This beach is where most Havelock resorts are concentrated. The sea here is calmer in the mornings and the beach is wider than Radhanagar, though less visually distinctive. Check in to your accommodation, freshen up.
Afternoon: Radhanagar Beach (Beach No. 7)
Radhanagar is 12 km from the jetty, approximately 25–30 minutes by auto or rented scooter (scooters available for Rs 400–600/day on Havelock). This is the primary reason most people come to Havelock. The 2 km beach faces west — the sun sets directly over the sea here, which is rare on India's east coast islands.
Arrive by 3:30 PM. Swim in the afternoon (the sea is clearest 2–4 hours before sunset). The forest department closes the beach at 5:30 PM — visitors must leave by this time. The sunset from the beach or from the forest path behind it is the best in the Andamans. There are no shacks or food stalls on the beach itself. Carry water.
Evening: Dinner at one of the restaurants near Beach No. 5 or the Havelock market junction. Fresh tuna, barracuda, and lobster are available at beachside restaurants for Rs 400–900 per dish. Budget meals at the market junction cost Rs 150–300.
Overnight: Havelock Island.
Day 3 — Elephant Beach Snorkeling & Return to Port Blair
Morning: Elephant Beach
Elephant Beach is the best accessible snorkeling spot in the main Andaman tourist circuit. It is reachable by boat from Havelock jetty (30 minutes, Rs 400–600 return per person, boats depart from 7 AM) or by a 45-minute forest trek from the road near the jetty. The coral reef at Elephant Beach starts in 1–2 metres of water and extends outward — even non-swimmers can snorkel in the shallow section with a life jacket and guide. Equipment is available for hire on the beach at Rs 300–500 per set.
Visibility is best in the morning before the boats churn up the water. Arrive on the first or second boat of the day (7–8 AM departure) for the best conditions. Fish species visible include parrotfish, surgeonfish, angelfish, and occasionally sea turtles.
Allow 2.5–3 hours at Elephant Beach.
Late Morning: Kalapathar Beach
Kalapathar (Black Rock Beach) is 12 km from the jetty on Havelock's eastern coast — a 25-minute scooter ride. This beach faces east, which means the light in the morning is excellent. The beach is named for the black rocks at the waterline. Unlike Radhanagar, it is not a swimming beach — the rocks and occasional rough surf make entry difficult. It is, however, one of the quietest and most visually clean beaches on the island and worth 45 minutes before heading back.
Afternoon: Return Ferry to Port Blair
Afternoon ferries (government and speed ferry) depart Havelock between 12 PM and 3 PM for Port Blair. Check schedules in advance and book the return ticket when you book the outbound journey. Reach Port Blair by 3–5 PM depending on ferry type.
If your flight departs the next morning, use the late afternoon in Port Blair for the Samudrika Naval Marine Museum (3 km from city center, operated by the Indian Navy, Rs 50 entry, good overview of Andaman marine life and island history) or the Anthropological Museum on M.G. Road (Rs 20 entry, focused on the indigenous Andaman tribes — the Great Andamanese, Onge, Sentinelese, Jarawa, and Nicobarese). Both close by 5–5:30 PM.
Overnight: Port Blair (if flying next morning).
Package Costs: What Tour Operators Charge vs DIY
Most travel agents in Chennai, Kolkata, and online package platforms offer 3-night/4-day Andaman packages. Here is what these typically include and what they cost:
| Package Type | Inclusions | Approx. Cost Per Person |
|---|---|---|
| Budget package (twin sharing) | Port Blair hotel, Havelock hotel, ferry, Cellular Jail, Radhanagar, Elephant Beach | Rs 12,000–18,000 (ex-flights) |
| Mid-range package | Above + speed ferry, AC hotels, Ross Island, guided tours | Rs 22,000–32,000 (ex-flights) |
| DIY (self-planned) | Booked independently | Rs 8,000–14,000 (ex-flights) |
Tour packages save planning time but add a 20–35% markup over DIY costs. For a straightforward 3-day itinerary like this one, booking independently (hotel + ferry directly, auto-rickshaws on the islands) is not complicated and saves Rs 4,000–8,000 per person.
Budget Breakdown (Per Person, 3 Days, Ex-Flights)
| Expense | Budget (Rs) | Mid-Range (Rs) |
|---|---|---|
| Accommodation (3 nights) | 2,500–4,500 | 7,000–15,000 |
| Ferries (Port Blair–Havelock return) | 600–900 (govt) | 2,200–3,200 (speed ferry) |
| Local transport (autos, scooter rental) | 800–1,200 | 1,500–2,500 |
| Food (3 days) | 1,500–2,500 | 3,500–6,000 |
| Activities (snorkeling, water sports, museum entries) | 800–1,500 | 2,000–4,000 |
| Total (per person, ex-flights) | Rs 6,200–10,600 | Rs 16,200–30,700 |
Best Time to Visit
November to February is peak season — dry weather, calm seas, all ferries operational, maximum daylight hours. December 20 to January 5 is the most crowded and expensive window.
March and April are excellent — slightly warmer (30–34°C), fewer crowds than December–January, and sea conditions remain good. Ferry availability is better than peak season.
October is a shoulder month — monsoon ends by late September in the Andamans and conditions improve rapidly. Some resorts and operators reopen from mid-October. A good budget option.
May to September: Avoid. The southwest monsoon makes sea crossings dangerous, ferry services are suspended on many days, and most Havelock resorts close for the season.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. Is 3 days enough for the Andamans?
Three days covers Port Blair and Havelock Island adequately for a first trip. You will see the Cellular Jail, Ross Island, Radhanagar Beach, and Elephant Beach — the four non-negotiable experiences. What 3 days does not allow for is Neil Island (add 1–2 days), North Andaman with Diglipur and Ross & Smith Islands (add 2–3 days), or Baratang Island with its limestone caves and mangrove creeks (a full day trip from Port Blair). If this is your only Andaman trip, 5 days is the better duration. If a 3-day trip leaves you wanting more, the return trip is straightforward to plan.
2. Which is better — government ferry or speed ferry to Havelock?
Speed ferries (Makruzz, Green Ocean, Nautika) are significantly more comfortable, faster (60–90 min vs 2 hours), and have assigned seating with AC cabins. The cost difference — Rs 1,100–1,600 vs Rs 300–450 — is worth it for most travelers, particularly if the sea is choppy. Government ferries are larger and more stable in rough conditions but the open deck seating is exposed to sun and wind. For the early morning departure, the speed ferry allows you to arrive at Havelock in time for a full morning. Book speed ferry tickets at least 2–3 weeks in advance during peak season.
3. Do I need to carry cash to the Andamans?
Yes — carry adequate cash before leaving Port Blair for Havelock. There is one SBI ATM near the Havelock market junction but it runs out of cash on weekends and public holidays with regularity. Most beach shacks, auto-rickshaw drivers, and smaller guesthouses on Havelock do not accept UPI or cards. Port Blair has multiple ATMs near Aberdeen Bazaar and the city center. Withdraw what you need for 2 days on Havelock before boarding the ferry.
4. Is scuba diving available and worth it on a 3-day trip?
Yes — scuba diving is available at Havelock Island through operators near Beach No. 5 (Barefoot Scuba, Dive India, and others). A beginner's discover scuba dive costs Rs 3,500–5,000 and takes approximately 3 hours including briefing and the dive itself. The dive sites near Havelock — Dixon's Pinnacle, Johnny's Gorge, and Aquarium — have coral, reef sharks, and strong fish diversity. For a 3-day itinerary, scheduling the dive on Day 2 afternoon (after Radhanagar) or Day 3 morning (instead of or in addition to Elephant Beach snorkeling) is the most practical fit. No prior certification is required for a beginner discover dive.
5. What should I pack specifically for the Andamans?
Beyond standard beach trip items, carry: reef-safe sunscreen (chemical sunscreens damage coral — use mineral-based SPF 50), a rash guard or UV shirt for snorkeling (the equatorial sun is stronger than on the mainland), waterproof sandals or water shoes for rocky beaches like Kalapathar and Elephant Beach, a dry bag for ferry rides and boat trips (spray on open decks is significant), sufficient cash as covered above, and any prescription medications — the pharmacy options on Havelock are very limited. A light rain jacket is useful even in peak season as afternoon showers are possible. Download offline maps of Port Blair and Havelock before departure — mobile data on Havelock is slow and unreliable.